在500公里狹長(zhǎng)的武夷山脈上，我們進(jìn)行了一場(chǎng)關(guān)于“茶”的深思
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Tea-producing area
June ,2022
From the Internet
城市生活千變?nèi)f化，武夷山的制茶人卻依然扎根山內(nèi)，只為呈現(xiàn)出那一杯蘊(yùn)含山骨之氣的武夷巖茶。我們延續(xù)中國(guó)茶視角，探尋感悟，重新將“好茶”定義。
知悉茶事，品萬(wàn)象茶境
Know about tea and taste Vientiane tea
文 | 幫利茶業(yè)市場(chǎng)中心
責(zé)任編輯 | Vera
茶與武夷山脈：
Tea and Wuyi Mountains
一杯茶的美好滋味，在茶人與飲者之間，隔著無(wú)可替代的地理?xiàng)l件與神奇的制茶技藝。
The fragrant taste of a cup of tea is separated by irreplaceable geographical conditions and magical tea making skills between tea masters and tea drinkers.
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Benny in the tea room
June ,2022
Taken on the scene
武夷山又名虎夷山。據(jù)史傳，唐堯時(shí)有彭祖與二子曰武曰夷，到該山東麓的崇安西南鄉(xiāng)隱居，因當(dāng)?shù)睾樗７簽E成災(zāi)，彭武與彭夷兩兄弟便開山鑿石，挖河渠疏導(dǎo)洪水。當(dāng)時(shí)人們?yōu)榱思o(jì)念他們，就把他倆開挖河道時(shí)堆壘的小土石山稱為“武夷山”。后來(lái)，雄峙贛閩邊界的大山也統(tǒng)稱為武夷山。
Wuyi Mountain is also known as Huyi mountain. According to historical legend, Peng Zu and his second son, Wu Yueyi, lived in seclusion in the southwest township of Chong'an at the eastern foot of the mountain in Tang Yao. Because local floods often flooded, Peng Wu and Peng Yi brothers dug mountains, rocks, and dug canals to divert floods. At that time, in order to commemorate them, people called the small earth and stone mountain built by them when they were excavating the river as "Wuyi Mountain". Later, the mountains that stand on the border between Jiangxi and Fujian were also collectively referred to as Wuyi Mountains.
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Benny passed on the way
June ,2022
Record casualy
在地理上，武夷山脈呈東北—西南走向，綿延與閩、浙、贛邊界，長(zhǎng)約500多公里，將閩北大部分地區(qū)天然地帶阻隔開來(lái)。僅就福建來(lái)講，山脈覆蓋面積超過(guò)半個(gè)閩北，最南端在閩西武平縣的梁野山結(jié)束。丘陵起伏，河谷盆地錯(cuò)落其間，在一定程度上將武夷山脈的地理進(jìn)行分割。于是，武夷山地區(qū)在氣候、地貌、山系上都自成單元，形成多個(gè)自成體系的自然與社會(huì)經(jīng)濟(jì)區(qū)域。
Geographically, Wuyi Mountains run from northeast to southwest, stretching over 500 kilometers along the borders of Fujian, Zhejiang and Jiangxi, blocking most natural areas in Northern Fujian. As far as Fujian is concerned, the mountains cover more than half of Northern Fujian, and the southernmost end is liangye mountain in Wuping County, Western Fujian. Rolling hills and scattered river valleys and basins divide the geography of Wuyi Mountains to a certain extent. As a result, Wuyi Mountain region has formed its own units in climate, landform and mountain system, forming a number of natural and social economic regions with their own systems.
Wuyi Mountains
June 27,,2022
From the Internet
整條山脈，就像一排高海拔的天然屏障，截留了東南海洋的溫暖氣流。加上山與水形成的有益互動(dòng)，保障了物種的多樣性與資源的豐富性，使其成為地理演變過(guò)程中許多動(dòng)植物的“天然避難所”。而顯著的氣候垂直變化，形成了東南大陸面積最大、保存最完整的中亞熱帶森林生態(tài)系統(tǒng)，非常適于農(nóng)作物的生長(zhǎng)。武夷全山均系巖山，懸崖絕壁構(gòu)成深坑巨谷，地形至為復(fù)雜。就植茶條件上而言，實(shí)可得種種理想環(huán)境。如是經(jīng)數(shù)百年代不斷墾殖與改良，遂使武夷成為一特殊茶區(qū)。
The whole mountain range, like a row of high-altitude natural barriers, intercepts the warm air flow of the southeast ocean. In addition, the beneficial interaction between mountains and water ensures the diversity of species and the richness of resources, making it a "natural refuge" for many animals and plants in the process of geographical evolution. The significant vertical climate change has formed the largest and best preserved subtropical forest ecosystem in the southeast continent, which is very suitable for the growth of crops. The whole Wuyi Mountain is a rocky mountain, with cliffs and cliffs forming deep pits and huge valleys, and the terrain is extremely complex. In terms of tea planting conditions, various ideal environments can be obtained. After hundreds of years of continuous cultivation and improvement, Wuyi became a special tea area.
環(huán)境雖決定了茶樹鮮葉的好壞基礎(chǔ)，不過(guò)最終的成茶還要經(jīng)過(guò)制作工藝來(lái)展現(xiàn)。
Although the environment determines the basis for the quality of fresh leaves of tea plants, the final finished tea needs to be displayed through the production process.
在宋代之前，武夷茶在全國(guó)產(chǎn)區(qū)處于邊緣；在宋代發(fā)展至巔峰的北苑貢茶區(qū)域，甚至連邊緣都稱不上。明末時(shí)期，崇安縣令重振武夷茶，綠茶的炒清制法被引進(jìn)，這是當(dāng)時(shí)最先進(jìn)的制茶技術(shù)。然而炒清綠茶制法無(wú)法充分轉(zhuǎn)化武夷茶豐富的內(nèi)含物質(zhì)，制出的茶葉并不理想。武夷茶人便在求香的基礎(chǔ)上發(fā)明了半發(fā)酵的制茶技藝，先進(jìn)行發(fā)酵控制，而后炒清又焙干，用這種方法可以充分轉(zhuǎn)化茶葉中的內(nèi)含物質(zhì)，使得茶湯清香甘活。而今聲名遠(yuǎn)播的“武夷巖茶”除去基礎(chǔ)制茶流程，最為重要的便是“炭焙”此類制茶技法。
Before the Song Dynasty, Wuyi tea was on the edge of the national production areas; The Beiyuan tribute tea area, which reached its peak in the Song Dynasty, is not even marginal. In the late Ming Dynasty, Chongan county magistrate revived Wuyi tea, and the stir frying method of green tea was introduced, which was the most advanced tea making technology at that time. However, the method of stir frying green tea can not fully transform the rich contents of Wuyi tea, and the tea produced is not ideal. Wuyi tea people invented the semi fermentation tea making technology on the basis of seeking fragrance. They first carried out fermentation control, then fried and baked. In this way, the substances contained in tea can be fully transformed to make the tea soup fragrant and sweet. Now, the most important tea making technology of "Wuyi rock tea", which is well-known, is "charcoal baking" in addition to the basic tea making process.
Star Village Tea Factory
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Charcoal baking workbench
June ,2022
Taken on the scene
炭焙，顧名思義，指利用上等好炭的余火持續(xù)焙茶。炭焙時(shí)，焙籠中的溫度約在120攝氏度左右。一戶茶農(nóng)家里，沿用傳統(tǒng)炭焙工藝的話，平均一天只能焙上幾十斤的茶葉，只是我們相信，“文火慢燉”才有可能出好茶。
Charcoal baking, as the name suggests, refers to the continuous baking of tea by using the afterheat of superior charcoal. When baking with charcoal, the temperature in the baking cage is about 120 ℃. In a tea farmer's home, if the traditional charcoal baking process is followed, the average day can only bake dozens of kilograms of tea, but we believe that "slow stewing" can produce good tea.
Star Village Tea Factory
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Charcoal baking workbench
June ,2022
Taken on the scene
工藝的創(chuàng)新、口感的追求，越來(lái)越圍繞這一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)單的目標(biāo)而行：香。人們對(duì)于茶的評(píng)判，基本都是基于嗅覺和味覺，聞起來(lái)香，喝起來(lái)講究有豐富度的香。于是育種思維除了提高產(chǎn)量和抗逆性外，培育出優(yōu)質(zhì)高香的品種，是重要的目標(biāo)。武夷山地區(qū)有天然的優(yōu)勢(shì)，周邊的四季蘭、百合、桂花、杜鵑以及那些無(wú)名野花，四季里輪番綻放，空氣中彌漫的花香被茶葉吸收，最終影響到茶葉的香型。這也越來(lái)越多的表現(xiàn)為人們對(duì)武夷山好茶的群體認(rèn)知。
The innovation of technology and the pursuit of taste are increasingly centered on this simple goal: fragrance. People's evaluation of tea is basically based on smell and taste. It smells fragrant and tastes rich. Therefore, breeding thinking, in addition to improving yield and stress resistance, cultivating high-quality and fragrant varieties is an important goal. Wuyi Mountain area has natural advantages. The surrounding four seasons orchids, lilies, osmanthus, azalea and those nameless wild flowers bloom in turns in four seasons. The fragrance in the air is absorbed by tea, which ultimately affects the aroma of tea. This is also increasingly manifested in people's group cognition of Wuyi Mountain good tea.
而武夷茶得以“天產(chǎn)”馳名天下，不僅于此。茶葉品質(zhì)之優(yōu)異除原樹品種良好之根本條件而外。天然環(huán)境之優(yōu)越，于培植之能得法，采制之能合理，三者不可一缺。
Wuyi tea is not only famous for its "natural products". The excellent quality of tea is not only the basic condition for the good variety of original trees. The superiority of natural environment, the ability of cultivation and reasonable harvesting are indispensable.
Star Village Tea Factory
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
June ,2022
Taken on the scene
茶葉制作是一個(gè)復(fù)雜的過(guò)程。武夷山脈上的茶，品種繁多，葉與梗的大小、長(zhǎng)短、薄厚、粗細(xì)、含水量等，都不統(tǒng)一。技藝精湛的制茶師傅深知“看天做青，看青做青”的真意。武夷制茶師傅做茶，面對(duì)一筐上好青茶，有如玉雕師傅面對(duì)一塊絕世璞玉般。完美茶青要在自己手里上演完美落幕，技藝也將有了實(shí)現(xiàn)最大價(jià)值的舞臺(tái)。含水量80%的鮮葉，制成含水量7%以下的毛茶，隨葉內(nèi)水分散失速度和程度的不同，引起葉內(nèi)物質(zhì)相應(yīng)的理化變化，從而逐步形成茶葉的色、香、味、形不同的品質(zhì)特征。
Tea making is a complicated process. There are many kinds of tea in Wuyi Mountains, and the size, length, thickness, crudeness or fineness and moisture content of leaves and stems are not unified. Skilled tea makers know the true meaning of "seeing the sky as green, seeing green as green". Wuyi tea making master makes tea, facing a basket of good green tea, is like a jade carving master facing a piece of peerless jade. Perfect tea green wants to perform a perfect ending in its own hands, and the skill will also have a stage to realize the maximum value. Fresh leaves with a water content of 80% are made into Mao tea with a water content of less than 7%. With the different speed and degree of water loss in the leaves, the corresponding physical and chemical changes of substances in the leaves are caused, so as to gradually form the quality characteristics of tea with different color, aroma, taste and shape.
Star Village Tea Factory
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
June ,2022
Record casualy
究竟何為好茶？
What is good tea?
蒼山翠崖，蜿蜒綿延。我們懷揣一份對(duì)茶的熱愛，穿過(guò)平原，越過(guò)山丘，在茶中“勃艮第”的中國(guó)古老的茶產(chǎn)區(qū)——武夷山脈下尋找答案。
Cangshan green cliff, winding and continuous. With the love for tea, we crossed the plains and hills to find the answer under the Wuyi Mountains, China's ancient tea producing area of "Burgundy" in tea.
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Benny Tea Industry Visit
June ,2022
On the way
我們對(duì)武夷山的向往來(lái)源于太多的歷史記憶、文化想象和生活感受，如今大家品的茶形、茶色、茶味，也不再是單純的感官評(píng)判。在探訪了手工制茶廠、傳承大師后，我們感觸頗多。
Our longing for Wuyi Mountain comes from too much historical memory, cultural imagination and life experience. Now the shape, color and taste of tea we taste are no longer just sensory judgments. After visiting handmade tea factories and inheritance masters, we felt a lot,
走訪途中我們發(fā)現(xiàn)：茶山生態(tài)優(yōu)良，但人煙旱至。歸根結(jié)底是由于全球茶葉供大于求，產(chǎn)能過(guò)剩；加之子女教育問(wèn)題，茶農(nóng)放棄農(nóng)村，從而導(dǎo)致年輕勞動(dòng)力喪失，農(nóng)村老齡化加劇，目前茶農(nóng)的平均年齡已超過(guò)50歲。這也使得傳統(tǒng)工藝制茶中美麗的田園景色、生態(tài)條件、可持續(xù)的土壤，都無(wú)法在中國(guó)茶的生產(chǎn)價(jià)值體系中體現(xiàn)，同時(shí)制茶師傅面對(duì)好茶青的巧手匠心也將被埋藏在涓涓的文明長(zhǎng)河中。
During the visit, we found that the ecology of tea mountain is excellent, but small population. In the final analysis, it is due to the global oversupply of tea and overcapacity; In addition to the problem of children's education, tea farmers give up the countryside, resulting in the loss of young labor force and the aggravation of rural aging. At present, the average age of tea farmers has exceeded 50 years old. This also makes the beautiful rural scenery, ecological conditions and sustainable soil in traditional tea making unable to be reflected in the production value system of Chinese tea. At the same time, the ingenuity of tea makers in dealing with good tea will also be buried in the trickle of civilization.
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Tea farmers pick tea
June ,2022
Narrative shooting
傳統(tǒng)手工制茶的師傅是最能知道清早上山采青茶工的艱辛，知道一次難得的晴天對(duì)茶青的難得，明白一頓漫射光滋養(yǎng)的意義。于是，粗厚的手掌躍躍欲試的開始搓起來(lái)，搖青、靜置、再搖青，大約循環(huán)數(shù)十次，少則五、六小時(shí)，多則數(shù)十小時(shí)有余，其間還需觀茶葉情況，不得有半點(diǎn)馬虎。而后，炒青、揉捻、干燥，直至天亮，茶初成。身處現(xiàn)場(chǎng)的我們對(duì)師傅的辛勤產(chǎn)生驚嘆，更加折服于師傅的嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)。
The master of traditional hand-made tea is the one who can best know the hardships of picking green tea in the early morning, the difficulty of a rare sunny day for green tea, and the significance of a diffuse light nourishment. Therefore, the thick palm eagerly began to rub up, shaking green, standing, and then shaking green for about dozens of times, ranging from five or six hours to more than ten hours. During this period, we still need to watch the tea situation, and there must be no carelessness. Then, stir fry, roll and dry until dawn, and the tea is ready. We at the scene were amazed at the master's hard work and were more convinced by the master's preciseness.
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Tea-producing area
5 a.m.
June ,2022
Star Village Tea Factory
Wuyishan City,Fujian Province
Master is making tea
June ,2022
Taken on the scene
半盞清茶，觀浮沉人生。在茶室靜心而坐，散發(fā)在空氣中的芳香分子藉由鼻腔吸收后，一陣清風(fēng)拂過(guò)，師傅的一泡茶便已倒入杯中。濃郁奶香，馥郁花香，我們?yōu)樨S富層次感的變化而震撼，實(shí)在幸而不負(fù)有心人。期間，師傅向我們娓娓道來(lái)了許多關(guān)于武夷山的歷史文化，從他的眼神談吐中，我們感受到師傅對(duì)茶更高的追求，體悟到智慧的啟發(fā)，增長(zhǎng)了眼界的拓展。所謂技藝的傳承，便是如此通過(guò)制茶人的心智與能力來(lái)理解并發(fā)揚(yáng)茶的本質(zhì)。
Half a cup of tea, watching the ups and downs of life. Sit quietly in the tea room. After the aromatic molecules emitted in the air are absorbed by the nose, a breeze blows, and the master's tea has been poured into the cup. We are shocked by the change of the rich sense of hierarchy, which is rich in milk and flowers. It is really lucky to live up to those who have a true heart. During this period, the master told us a lot about the history and culture of Wuyi Mountain. From his eyes and conversation, we felt the master's higher pursuit of tea, realized the Enlightenment of wisdom, and expanded our horizons. The so-called inheritance of skills is to understand and carry forward the essence of tea through the mind and ability of tea makers.
Wuyi tea
Benny in the tea room
June ,2022
文化，是“茶韻”的底氣。中國(guó)茶道注重道德意識(shí)，崇尚和諧的精神，節(jié)儉的作風(fēng)，求真的精神尤為重要。真正的好茶若是回到農(nóng)產(chǎn)品本身，能因技藝、情感、自然而打動(dòng)人心的茶，必然是奢侈品。而有些土地，天生就讓人興奮。
Culture is the foundation of "tea charm". Chinese tea ceremony pays attention to moral consciousness, advocates the spirit of harmony, frugal style, and the spirit of truth-seeking is particularly important. If the real good tea comes back to the agricultural products themselves, the tea that can move people's hearts due to skills, emotions and nature must be a luxury. And some lands are naturally exciting.
制茶多年，幫利堅(jiān)持在武夷山產(chǎn)區(qū)深耕，作為武夷巖茶重要的原料產(chǎn)區(qū)，數(shù)位制茶大師在此孕育、扎根。我們彼此同行，從心出發(fā)，傾注對(duì)茶的尊敬與渴望。從傳統(tǒng)茶制作經(jīng)驗(yàn)中創(chuàng)造出極其優(yōu)質(zhì)的餐飲用茶，正是幫利公司專業(yè)人員所從事的業(yè)務(wù)。
For many years, Benny has insisted on deep cultivation in Wuyi Mountain production area. As an important raw material production area of Wuyi rock tea, several tea masters have been bred and rooted here. We walk with each other and pour our respect and desire for tea from our hearts. It is the business of professionals of Benny to create extremely high-quality catering tea from the experience of traditional tea production.
茶語(yǔ)清香，借茶靜心，一杯茶湯里蘊(yùn)藏的是一份真摯的情感，希望茶者皆能在品茶賞茶的過(guò)程中慢下來(lái)，和文明對(duì)話，與歷史并肩。
Tea has a delicate fragrance and borrow tea to meditate. A cup of tea liquid contains a sincere emotion. We hope tea drinkers can slow down in the process of tasting tea, have a dialogue with civilization and stand side by side with history.
